Q) Where do you ship to?

A) We currently ship directly to customers in the USA and Canada. TrigJig tools can also be purchased via local and national hardware/tool shops in the UK and other European stores, as well as online.

Q) Why doesn’t my TrigJig come with a battery, what battery do I need and where can I get one?

A) Due to ever increasing aviation restrictions we are unable to supply the TrigJig with the lithium button cell battery (CR2450) to some areas. However, these batteries are very cheap, they last around 2 years and are available from most big hardware stores or online.

Q) Can’t I just do the same thing with my $10 dollar bevel?

A) Not using just a bevel. A bevel will take the profile of the angle, but you will still need to bi-sect it to work out the miter angle required. If fitting crown you will also need a calculator or chart. On top of that, you will need something to guide your cut and also the saw / miter saw itself. The TrigJigs measure and calculate (in less than 1 millisecond) the required angles instantly and with their magnetic cutting faces also guide hand saws to make a cut. No $10 bevel does all of that.

Q) Does this remove the skill from the trade?

A) Only as much as calculators remove the mental arithmetic abilities of accountants. Nobody would hire an accountant who insists on calculating everything manually. TrigJig Digital Miter Tools are another tool that can speed up and simplify one process of the trade and could be considered essential to the modern tradesperson.

Q) Does this do different things to my chopsaw?

A) Yes. TrigJigs are finisher’s tools. They measure the angle of the corner and work out the calculations for you instantly. You can then use a fine tooth hand saw to get a perfect cut, so effectively you only need a TrigJig Digital Miter and a TrigJig Hand Saw, this is an ideal set up for smaller jobs with awkward, non-90 degree corners, or when using an electric miter saw is jut not practical. On larger projects you may prefer to use the in-built Miter Saw Calculator Function (2017 models only) to use with your electric miter saw to cut crown molding / coving and baseboard / skirting board ‘on the flat’. This removes the need for large fences, holding the trim in place or the use of more trim specific jigs.

Q) Can this be used with a hand saw and why?

A) The Digital Miter Tools were developed in Europe, where most of the coving/cornice is made from plaster or lightweight high density polyurethane. Using an electric miter saw for these materials can be a bit heavy handed and many trades prefer the mobile and low set-up time involved with handsaws, especially for runs of less than 100m. However, modern hardpoint and good quality traditional handsaws can still cut through wood and MDF trim with ease, so some tradesmen in north America like to use the TrigJigs with a hand saw even when cutting these materials. After all, handsaws are sold by the million each year specifically for cutting wood. If cutting lots of wooden trim it would be better to use an electric miter saw with the TrigJig Miter Saw Function.

Q) Do they work with all size and profiles of crown/coving and baseboard/skirting board?

A) TrigJig Base/Skirting will work with most sizes and profiles so long as there is a sufficient flat surface for the tool to rest on. TrigJig Crown/Coving will work with most concave profiles with standard spring angles of 45/45, 52/38 and 38/52 (the angle between the back of the coving and the wall). Most coving and crown moldings have these spring angles. Those with extra-large flat profiles that run down the face wall may not be suitable. For larger coving/cornice/crown you may opt to use the Miter Saw Calculator Function and use an electric miter saw.

Q) I’m not a tradesperson but I like DIY. Can I still use a TrigJig Digital Miter?

A) Certainly. Any competent DIYer should be able to operate TrigJig. We have a detailed instruction manual in several languages and several YouTube instruction videos to help trades and DIYers alike. As the tool is so new and innovative, it pays to familiarise yourself with it and all supporting instructions prior to use to prevent unnecessary wasted cuts.

Q) It seems like a really good tool, does it really work?

A) It certainly does. The tools are accurate to 0.1 degree, so they’re only limited by the skill of the user. Even so, after a little practice they’re very easy to use and are incredibly good at getting the job done quickly and more precisely than traditional methods.

Q) Why are there two separate tools? Can’t they be made into one?

A) We originally looked at this. However, the physical constraints of the coving/crown tool meant it must be the exact shape it is. This shape didn’t lend itself very well to cutting skirting/baseboards, so we followed this up with the rectangular shape of the skirting/baseboard tool.

Q) I have an old house with awkward corners. How do I fit coving/crown or skirting/baseboard to angles that aren’t precisely angles of 90 degrees?

A) That is precisely what TrigJig was developed for. Corners that are exactly 90 degrees don’t exist in the real world and so you end up filling gaps with unsightly caulk and filler. This will usually crack or stain paint over time. You shouldn’t need to fill a miter joint and using a TrigJig will mean you won’t have to.
Fault Finder

Q) My tool will not turn on.

A) Assuming the battery is new, check that the contact is good. The gold battery contact may have a factory residue that needs a gentle wipe/scrape or the spring in the battery plate may not be pressing down sufficiently to create a contact. In this instance take the spring out and give it a gentle stretch (this will not affect your warranty).

Q) The joints I cut do not seem to be correct. The tools isn’t working properly.

A) The tools have been tested on hundreds of profiles across all angles and are compatible with over 95% of them. Therefore it is best to run through the checklist below to ensure you are doing everything correctly.

  1. When turned on, re-calibrate by re-zeroing when closed (check the 6mm holes on the spine are exactly inline **TJC-08-01 only)
  2. Turn off the ‘LOCK’ function.
  3. If fitting coving/crown, check that the tool is set to the correct spring angle of your material by holding down the (SET) button for 3 seconds and scrolling through the spring angle settings using the M/B button. Press the ‘LOCK’ button when the spring angle required is shown.
  4. If cutting using a hand saw, ensure the tool does not move during the first few strokes of the saw, especially when using lightweight materials or those with a slippery surface.
  5. Sometimes small gaps can occur from poor sawing technique.
  6. Remember to account for adhesive by adding a few mm on the length for external corners, and removing a few mm for internal corners.
  7. Remember to clamp your work, not your TrigJig.
  8. Check that the walls are not overly bumpy. If they are, use a length of material to mark the floor on each side and line the tool up on these lines to get a more accurate representation of the angle across a longer distance.
  9. If the corners are excessively out of plumb you may have to make a compound cut (for TJS-06-01 only, the TJC-08-01 does these anyway). To do this with a TrigJig see our online video tutorial.
  10. When cutting coving/crown by hand it is very important that you mark the miter angle and re-adjust the tool to cut the bevel angle (see instruction video).

Q) The teeth on my saw are scratching the tool and becoming blunt

A) The teeth of your saw stick out to the side slightly (set) and these may catch the cutting face of the tool. To avoid this, keep the teeth below the bottom edge of the tool and saw using the same motion as you would using a tenon saw in a miter box. This may take some practice. Alternatively, you can purchase disposable self-adhesive scratch plates that take the punishment from your saw, keeping the teeth sharp and the metal of your TrigJig scratch free (to maintain accuracy these should be replaced after heavy use).

Q) My coving/crown corners are not matching up

A) The most common cause of this is cutting the wrong piece. Inside and outside corners require different cuts and can catch out many novices. Refer to the guide in the manual.